Black + Oil Slick TITANIUM Tubeless Valves

Von einem Mystery-Man-Autor
Last updated 03 Juni 2024
Black + Oil Slick TITANIUM Tubeless Valves
Built to last: Terske black titanium tubeless valve stems with oil slick highlights. Durable, serviceable, and lightweight. (Not to mention pretty darn good looking.)

One Gram Heavier.

Four times As Strong.

Why titanium for tubeless valve stems?  While we love the sort of upgrades that shave weight and add a bit of character to our builds, sometimes those upgrades come with downsides.  In the case of lightweight aluminum tubless valve stems, that weight savings comes with a serious reduction in strength- as anyone who has snapped a valve stem while frantically pumping mid-race (or hanging their bike from a hook in the garage) will attest.

So we propose a compromise: give us back a gram and we'll give you a tubless valve stem nearly four times as strong as the alternative.

But why stop there? 

Seeing as Ti is more expensive to source and slower to machine than aluminum, we wanted to keep our our tubless valve stems in service as long as possible.  So we made the parts that wear or which can be fouled by sealant easily replaceable- and their replacements readily available.  So while the cost more to begin with, as soon as you've replaced your first gasket you've come out ahead.  And let's be honest: the last thing anyone needs is another disposable product.

How does the math work out for Titanium Tubeless Valve Stems? 

Two valves and four sets of spare cores and gaskets costs $47.45, a little less the $16/set going rate for non-serviceable brass tubeless valve sets.

Anything else?

Well there's our Bead Shed Technology- patent-pending geometry that helps to keep the tire bead from hanging up on the valve stem.  It's a small thing, one that you won't notice working, but it does make tire installation and seating easier.  After all: we just want to get you on your bike and riding as quickly as possible.

And finally, we moved obstructions from the valve stem body for an 86% larger thru hole than standard and fewer places for sealant to hide and congeal.

We want these tubeless valve stems to be as easy to install and maintain on as many tubeless wheels and tire setups as possible. 

Read more about the design process at our blog.

Tech Specs

 

44mm

60mm

Weight

5.0g per stem
5.3g with dust cap

6.25g per stem
6.5g with dust cap

Package Quantity

2 stems
(one bike worth)

2 stems
(one bike worth)

FAQs

Is the whole tubeless valve stem titanium?

We actually use aluminum for the knurled nuts because Ti there was adding cost without adding value.  It also gave us the opportunity to offer highlights in colors that aren't readily achievable in Ti.  The replaceable valve cores are brass and the gaskets -of course- rubber.

What's with the plastic valve cap?

Well, if you're anything like us those dust caps are the first thing to go- if not lost on the trail then set aside after the fiftieth (or fifth) tire pressure check.  So we include dust caps to protect the valve stems in transit and in case you want to use them- but it won't hurt our feelings if we don't see them on the bike.

How are tubeless valve stems measured- and which one will fit my rims?
Valve stems are generally measured from the end of the base to the end of the stem (not including the valve core).  Does that make sense?  No!  But it's how things are done (and we don't make the rules).  We've included a photo above for reference.  Now for the fun part: rim depth measurements go to the end of bead hook so don't correlate directly to the valve stem length needed.  For example: on a 38mm deep rim the distance from the tire bed is usually closer to 30mm. 
 
Our 44mm valve stems are generally appropriate for double-wall rims with a nominal depth up to about 35mm- but unusually short bead hooks or deep center chanels can push things a couple of milimeters up or down from there.  Your best bet is to measure the distance between the center chanel of the rim and outer wall using the stick at the end of a set of calipers or by inserting and marking a straw, toothpick, or similar.  The nominal valve stem length should be at least 15mm greater than the dimension you come up with.
What is this Refresh Kit you speak of?

It's a spare set of valve cores (the assembly that actually closes off air flow) and gaskets (which create a seal between the valve stem and rim).  Because it never hurts to be prepared, these ship in sets of four.  We even include a small valve core removal tool.  Add to your valve stem purchase above or find them here.


One Gram Heavier. Four times As Strong. Why titanium for tubeless valve stems?  While we love the sort of upgrades that shave weight and add a bit of character to our builds, sometimes those upgrades come with downsides.  In the case of lightweight aluminum tubless valve stems, that weight savings comes with a serious reduction in strength- as anyone who has snapped a valve stem while frantically pumping mid-race (or hanging their bike from a hook in the garage) will attest. So we propose a compromise: give us back a gram and we'll give you a tubless valve stem nearly four times as strong as the alternative. But why stop there?  Seeing as Ti is more expensive to source and slower to machine than aluminum, we wanted to keep our our tubless valve stems in service as long as possible.  So we made the parts that wear or which can be fouled by sealant easily replaceable- and their replacements readily available.  So while the cost more to begin with, as soon as you've replaced your first gasket you've come out ahead.  And let's be honest: the last thing anyone needs is another disposable product. How does the math work out for Titanium Tubeless Valve Stems?  Two valves and four sets of spare cores and gaskets costs $47.45, a little less the $16/set going rate for non-serviceable brass tubeless valve sets. Anything else? Well there's our Bead Shed Technology- patent-pending geometry that helps to keep the tire bead from hanging up on the valve stem.  It's a small thing, one that you won't notice working, but it does make tire installation and seating easier.  After all: we just want to get you on your bike and riding as quickly as possible. And finally, we moved obstructions from the valve stem body for an 86% larger thru hole than standard and fewer places for sealant to hide and congeal. We want these tubeless valve stems to be as easy to install and maintain on as many tubeless wheels and tire setups as possible.  Read more about the design process at our blog. Tech Specs   44mm 60mm Weight 5.0g per stem5.3g with dust cap 6.25g per stem6.5g with dust cap Package Quantity 2 stems(one bike worth) 2 stems(one bike worth) FAQs Is the whole tubeless valve stem titanium? We actually use aluminum for the knurled nuts because Ti there was adding cost without adding value.  It also gave us the opportunity to offer highlights in colors that aren't readily achievable in Ti.  The replaceable valve cores are brass and the gaskets -of course- rubber. What's with the plastic valve cap? Well, if you're anything like us those dust caps are the first thing to go- if not lost on the trail then set aside after the fiftieth (or fifth) tire pressure check.  So we include dust caps to protect the valve stems in transit and in case you want to use them- but it won't hurt our feelings if we don't see them on the bike. How are tubeless valve stems measured- and which one will fit my rims? Valve stems are generally measured from the end of the base to the end of the stem (not including the valve core).  Does that make sense?  No!  But it's how things are done (and we don't make the rules).  We've included a photo above for reference.  Now for the fun part: rim depth measurements go to the end of bead hook so don't correlate directly to the valve stem length needed.  For example: on a 38mm deep rim the distance from the tire bed is usually closer to 30mm.    Our 44mm valve stems are generally appropriate for double-wall rims with a nominal depth up to about 35mm- but unusually short bead hooks or deep center chanels can push things a couple of milimeters up or down from there.  Your best bet is to measure the distance between the center chanel of the rim and outer wall using the stick at the end of a set of calipers or by inserting and marking a straw, toothpick, or similar.  The nominal valve stem length should be at least 15mm greater than the dimension you come up with. What is this Refresh Kit you speak of? It's a spare set of valve cores (the assembly that actually closes off air flow) and gaskets (which create a seal between the valve stem and rim).  Because it never hurts to be prepared, these ship in sets of four.  We even include a small valve core removal tool.  Add to your valve stem purchase above or find them here.
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